The Spanish Costa Brava: A Hidden Gem for the Chic and the Curious
The Costa Brava, a stretch of coastline in northern Spain, has long been a haven for those seeking a blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. While some areas have become tourist hotspots, there's a lesser-known region that remains off the radar, offering a more intimate and authentic experience: Baix Emporda. This region, nestled 40 minutes' drive from Girona, has been quietly thriving, preserving its charm and character while attracting a new generation of visitors.
A Region Rediscovered
Baix Emporda's allure lies in its ability to retain its old-world charm while embracing modern amenities. The area's history dates back to the 1950s when hotels and restaurants began to flourish, catering to repeat guests and offering a taste of traditional Spanish hospitality. However, it was the pandemic that sparked a renewed interest in this hidden gem. Younger Barcelona dwellers, seeking a change of pace, and remote workers looking for a new base, discovered the region's allure. Even high-profile figures like Beyoncé and Barack Obama have been spotted here, further cementing its reputation as a desirable destination.
Exploring the Coast and Beyond
The Camí de Ronda, a walking trail hugging the coastline, is a must-do for nature enthusiasts. This route, once used by 19th-century police to spy on smugglers, offers a mix of gentle and challenging stretches, providing breathtaking views of the pine-scented cliffs, tiny fishing villages, and hidden coves. For a more relaxed stroll, the beaches of Platja Fonda and Aigua Blava offer a peaceful escape, with the latter boasting a handful of restaurants and a vibrant atmosphere.
Boat enthusiasts can explore the area by hiring a vessel, sailing between Platja del Ráco and Calella, and discovering hidden caves along the way. A stop at Cala Pedrosa, a secluded cove with a seasonal chiringuito (a small beach bar), is a must for fresh seafood lovers.
Culinary Delights and Evening Escapes
Baix Emporda's culinary scene is a testament to its charm. Toc al Mar, located on the beach at Aigua Blava, offers a romantic dining experience with fresh fish and crisp white wine as the sun sets. Hostal Sa Rascassa, with its shaded garden and excellent food, is a delightful find for lunch, while Cap Sa Sal provides a truly romantic setting with its terraces overlooking the Mediterranean.
Llafranc, once popular with Liz Taylor, still boasts some of the region's hippest restaurants. Far Nomo, with its sushi and jasmine-scented gardens, and Isabella's, an Italian restaurant with a mid-century glam vibe, offer a taste of la dolce vita. For evening drinks, Clara, in the Hotel Aiguaclara, is a trendy spot, while chiringuitos along the beaches serve pintxos and generous gin and tonics.
Shopping and Wellness Escapes
The region's shopping scene caters to various tastes. Pals, with its medieval village charm, offers a gentle browsing experience with jewellers, clothing stores, and a Tuesday market for local produce. La Bisbal, known for its traditional pottery, now showcases cool, limited-edition ceramics at Limón Studio. For a more industrial shopping experience, Palafrugell's Xina Center and Tedi offer budget-friendly finds.
Where to Stay
Baix Emporda's accommodation options cater to different preferences. Finca Victoria, once a family retreat, has been transformed into an adults-only hideaway near the beach at Sa Riera. Hotel Aigua Blava, a family-friendly choice, offers stunning views, a heated pool, and a good breakfast buffet. Begur, a tiny town, boasts an array of boutique hotels, including the chic Alta House with its banana-palm shaded pool and the colorful La Bionda.
For wellness enthusiasts, Camiral Health & Wellness provides a tranquil escape with a vast wellness center and golf course, set to host the Ryder Cup in 2031.
Getting There
The nearest airport is Girona, with flights from various operators like BA, Easyjet, and Vueling. Barcelona, while having cheaper fares, is also an option. Car rental services are readily available at both airports, making it convenient to explore the region at your own pace.
In conclusion, Baix Emporda is a hidden gem that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and modern amenities. Its ability to retain its charm while embracing new visitors makes it a must-visit destination for those seeking an authentic Spanish experience.
